Mount Elbrus - North Route

Get ready to use your ice axe and crampons to climb the highest peak in Europe standing at 5,642m. Embrace the beautiful caucasus mountain range and learn all the skills you need along the way

Russia

Trip Days 10

Altitude 5642 M

Why take this trip

Test your resolve on the highest mountain in Europe. Elbrus is a double-cone volcano that stands as a watchtower between Europe and Asia. This is by no means an easy climb - strong winds and extreme cold are obstacles along your way to the summit. The north route is much more difficult than the south route as there are no snow cats or cable ways. You depend completely on your strong legs to take you up to the peak which just makes the challenge much more satisfying. Don’t worry though, all the skills you need to take on Elbrus can be taught on the expedition. All you need is a good level of fitness and a whole lot of grit.

Who is this for

For those who have been on a mountain before and want to take the challenge up to the next level, welcome aboard! Elbrus is an introduction to snowy climbs and some basic climbing techniques. You don’t need to have any experience in technical climbing or the use of ice axe and crampons, however we recommended that you have been on a mountain before, something like Kilimanjaro or Toubkal, so your focus can be put to learning new skills. You also need to be extremely fit to take this route as the summit night you will be hiking for 10-14 hours.

What’s next

Once you’ve successfully completed this climb, you will have gained the necessary experience to climb on Island Peak, Gran Paradiso, and Stok Kangri.

DAY 1 Hello, Mother Russia! – (B)

Upon arrival to Mineralnye Vody (MRV), we’ll be met by our drivers at the airport and taken to your hotel to settle down after the long flight.

DAY 2 To Emmanuel Glade (B, L, D)

After breakfast, we head to the rental office in Pyatigorsk to grab any missing gear then head to “Emmanuel Glade” at 2,500 which is the base camp in the northern foothills of Elbrus. The ride is around 3-4 hours but the beautiful scenery will keep you entertained the entire drive. Accommodation in huts at Emmanuel Glade (2500 m).

DAY 3 Acclimatizing Hike to 3,200m– (B, L, D)

After breakfast, we head on our first acclimatization hike to 3,200 m where we will see some exotic lava outcrops along the way and pass by a gorgeous mountain lake. Climbing hours around 6-7 hours and accommodation in huts.

DAY 4 Hike to 3,800m– (B, L, D)

Today we move from the Glade to the assault camp at 3,800 m on a high moraine bordering the lower snow fields. From there our view is overlooking the multi-colored dry range to the north and see the endless pastures stretching to the horizon. Climbing hours should be around 5-6. Porters are not included, so you will just carry the essentials (10 kg). We stay overnight at the camp, 3800 m.

DAY 5 Touching the rocks at 4,600m – (B, L, D)

For better acclimatization, we spend this day climbing to the lower end of Lents Rocks which is the rock band that goes straight to the east summit. The ascent on snow is not difficult and in around 4-5 hours we come to the lowest part of the rocks at 4,600 before we start heading back down to our huts. Climbing hours around 5-7 and accommodation in huts.

DAY 6 Rest Day – (B, L, D)

Today will be a rest day in preparation for the summit push. This day is also used for crampons and ice axe training as well as self rescue and how to use ropes. Accommodation in huts.

DAY 7 Summit Day – (B, L, D)

We wake up very early, have a quick breakfast, get geared up and start our summit push at around 2am. We follow the line of the Lent Rocks with a gentle ascent slope. From the summit, the view of the jagged and snowy caucuses main range to the south and the immense green pastures rolling into the blue haze of the horizon. We then head back down to the huts for a much deserved rest. Climbing hours around 14-15 and accommodation in huts

Day 8 Reserve Day/Descent to 2,500m – (B, L, D)

If the weather was bad the previous day, we will use this day for the summit push. If we had a successful summit on day 6 then this day we will descend to our base camp at 2,500 then drive to Pyatigorsk for a nice shower and warm bed at the hotel. Accommodation in hut/hotel

Day 9 Descent/Free Day – (B, L, D)

If we have done the summit on day 7, we descend to base camp at 2,500 then drive to Pyatigorsk. Overnight in hotel

Day 10 Homeward Bound – (B)

Today we will take a 30-40 min drive to the airport for our flight back home.

Terrain

The lower parts of the mountain have a rocky terrain surrounded by the majestic caucasus mountain range. The higher you go, the whiter everything turns as the mountain is completely covered in snow. You will learn how to walk in crampons and how to use your ice axe to help you along the ridges.

Weather

Elbrus is climbed in the summer only because of its high altitude and cold winter months. The season starts in June and ends in September. The weather on the mountains is unpredictable and can change anytime. But generally speaking, during the summer months, Elbrus has sunny mornings and pretty cold nights. While on the mountain in the mornings, the sun reflection on the snow keeps you slightly warm but once the sun goes down it gets cold so make sure you have the recommended gear with you to keep you comfortable. May/June; This is when climbing season begins on Elbrus so the weather is still a bit cold and might get windy but it is generally calmer than July and August. In July the summer sun begins to kick in and the mountain gets a bit warmer. August is the peak season of climbing Elbrus as it has the warmest weather so it tends to be more crowded. In September the weather starts to get colder again as autumn starts to kick in but it is still a good time to climb but you will need to make sure you have warmer gear.

Food

While on the mountain, you will have 3 energy filled meals every day, such as porridge and eggs for breakfast, soup, veggies and meat for lunch, soup and pasta for dinner. We try to accommodate all dietary requirements if mentioned in advance.

Accomodation

Most of this trip will be spent in basic mountain huts made of wood from the inside and metal from the outside. They are specially designed to keep the inside as warm as possible. The last night or 2 (depending on your summit day) will be spent at a 4* hotel in the village of Pyatigorsk

Overall Difficulty

Technical Skills

Days

Fitness level

Altitude

Technical Skills

A

No experiences is needed: Anyone can join this trip.

B

Minimal experience: You should probably have some hiking experience to join this trip. It is advisable to have gone on a hike for at least 2 days prior to joining this trip.

C

Moderate experience: You should have some climbing experience to join this trip. It is advisable to have been on at least a 4-day climb before joining this trip.

D

Technical experience: You should have technical climbing experience before joining this trip. It is recommended that you have experience with crampons, skis, ropes and belays.

E

Advanced technical experience: You should have technical climbing experience to join this trip. Depending on the climb, you will need a specific set of skills.